Falmouth

Falmouth is one of Cornwall’s most characterful towns — a vibrant, artsy port where a long winding high street of independent shops and galleries tumbles down to one of the world’s great natural harbours. The University of the Arts is one of the UK’s top creative institutions, and its influence is felt throughout the town: in the galleries, the makers, the coffee shops, the general sense that something interesting is always being produced here. Hailed as a foodie’s paradise, the restaurant and cafe scene is exceptional, with many venues commanding superb harbour views.

Delve deeper and Falmouth reveals a remarkable maritime past. The natural deep-water harbour — the world’s third largest of its kind — has attracted ships, smugglers and seafarers for centuries. The narrow alleys linking the high street to the waterfront were once full of inns and lively establishments. On Fish Strand Quay on 4th November 1805, the news of victory at Trafalgar — and the death of Lord Nelson — was first announced in England. On 2nd October 1836, Charles Darwin arrived here aboard HMS Beagle, completing her famous voyage around the world before departing by Royal Mail coach up Fish Strand Hill. At the Greenbank Hotel, it is thought that Kenneth Grahame began writing The Wind in the Willows in 1907, inspired by the river he could see from his room.

Today, giant naval vessels and gleaming superyachts share the harbour with working boats. Hop on the ferry to St Mawes or Truro, take a river cruise past subtropical gardens, or simply pull up a chair at the Greenbank and watch one of England’s finest natural harbours go about its business. Falmouth also has four sandy beaches between them covering most watersports — and for the adventurous, Castle Beach hides the wreckage of two German U-boats, visible at spring low tides or while snorkelling.