Boscastle
Cornwall’s most dramatic harbour
Where the rivers meet the sea
Sat on the north coast, this fishing village and working, natural harbour boasts a dramatic coastline both remote and rugged. The harbour itself is also not short on drama; nestled in the valley with its steep rocky walls rising up around it. Quaint stone crooked cottages set behind enchanting gardens make for pleasant viewing and a nod to its rich history.
Most famously known perhaps for its connection with folklore, magic, myth and legend, Boscastle houses the unique and quite frankly wonderful Museum of Witchcraft and Magic. Maybe a little spooky for the younger or more sensitive visitors, it displays a vast collection of magical artefacts from Cornwall’s pagan past that can’t be missed for those of a sturdier nature (it’s not too spooky but best to check in with the staff on the main desk before entering if unsure). In keeping with the museum, you can find the village littered with mystical shops full of magical artefacts and books to add to or start your own collection.
Featured in BBC Two’s A Seaside Parish in 2004, Boscastle was highlighted in following the life of newly appointed Rector Christine Musser. The village’s connection with famous author Thomas Hardy starts with his burgeoning career as an architect. Whilst working on the church tower, Hardy met his first wife. St Juliot church, along the Valency river — a place to which they frequently walked — has become a place of pilgrimage for lovers of his work.
Trek a little further inland and you might find the hidden Minster church where the bones of Joan Wytte, local white witch, were thought to be buried. Just outside the graveyard, a stone was laid in commemoration — her tumultuous history can be learned of at the Museum of Witchcraft. The land around Boscastle is now mostly owned by the National Trust, its gift and coffee shop on the edge of the harbour sells its usual gorgeous products plus local wares that help support the ongoing maintenance of the village.
Boscastle Highlights
The best of what Boscastle has to offer
Museum of Witchcraft & Magic
The largest collection of witchcraft-related artefacts in the world. Fascinating, slightly unsettling, and absolutely unique — right on the harbourside. Check with the desk before entering if unsure.
The Harbour & Devil’s Bellows
Elizabethan quay walls and a natural blowhole that fires a horizontal waterspout — best seen two hours before or after low tide. Walk out to the Coastwatch House at Willapark for views along the coast.
Thomas Hardy’s Valley
Hardy met Emma Gifford at St Juliot’s church and walked the Valency Valley with her. Trek further inland to find the hidden Minster church and the memorial stone for Joan Wytte, Boscastle’s white witch.
Coast Path & Forrabury Stitches
The South West Coast Path runs straight through. Above the village, the Forrabury Stitches are a rare surviving example of medieval strip farming — 52 ancient cultivation plots still worked today.
Places in Boscastle
Pubs, cafes, galleries and local shops
Walks near Boscastle
Valley trails, clifftop paths and coastal circuits
Getting There
Everything you need to plan your visit
🅿️ Parking
Pay-and-display car park at the top of the village. Fills quickly in summer — arrive before 11am in peak season. The walk down to the harbour is steep but short.
🚗 By Road
Take the A39 to Camelford, then the B3263 north for 5 miles. From Bude, the B3263 runs directly south along the coast. The final approach is narrow — take it slowly.
🚌 By Bus
Go Cornwall Bus service 95 (Bude to Wadebridge) stops at the car park, a short walk from the harbour. No direct train — nearest station is Bodmin Parkway.